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Travel notes. Shagaa: a two-day marathon. Yet other winter days in Tuva

March 15, 2018by airamoNo Comments

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This article continues our series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa – the Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

 

My day before Shagaa itself was meticulously planned, but the National Museum surpassed all expectations, and I forgot all about the overall plan. I did not manage to visit the exposition “Gold of the Scythians”, but thanks to the photographer Julia Kuksova, the museum will soon have a virtual 3D tour with an overview of most halls. Unlike Julia, who was forced to resign to filming during her whole visit, I could quietly go through the exhibitions. Since it was Shagaa, when it is customary to wear national dress, traditional and more modern national costumes were displayed on the ground floor. To me and the hosts of the program “Running on Tuva”, the guide said that recently the tradition of wearing national clothes began to revive not only on holidays, but also in everyday life. I saw both the wardrobe of the 19th century, and clothes designed by modern designers with the preservation of Tuvan style. And in the building of the museum I was most impressed with the giant paintings spanning three floors. The whole space looked excellently grand. I hope we didn’t annoy the staff too much – staying to the last minute of opening hours.

And after that, we absolutely had to rest a little before the night of Shagaa. We were so tired that we slept through the concert, which we planned to attend, but we were still sleepy. Meanwhile, the Shagaa was inevitably approaching, for the sake of which I planned this whole trip. We had an approximate route and a wish to visit a Buddhist prayer service. Having reached the temple, we took a forty-minute break, which lasted an hour. With the risk of being late for the conduct of the shamanic ritual, we hurried to where it was supposed to be. Here it is necessary to mention the main difficulty that has haunted me for more than a month: I could not figure out where women could and could not go. The fact is that the main rite is held on the mountain Dogee, where men must meet the sun. Women are forbidden to climb the mountain, otherwise natural disasters and other adversities are made possible. However, some wrote to me that as a journalist it is still possible, but I firmly decided not to break the tradition and not cause discontent.
I think, if it were not for the employees of the “Tuvinskaya Pravda”, who recognised me and took us to the ceremony, we would have been wondering around for a while. We arrive ten minutes late. The fire was already started, and a huge mountainous shaman, with an extending headdress was already beginning the ritual. His actions made me realise he was working the with fire spirits.

A few words about daily life: as the shaman used to tell us on the previous day, lighting was organised and supplies of tea with milk were frozen beforehand.
In the darkness there was a huge “hut” made of firewood much higher than human height (even taller than that shaman). When the drum was played, the fire lit up. Quite soon the heat near me forced me to move further back. Tuva IS a country of contrasts, where your back can be cold, and your face – hot! I felt many intricately interesting emotions over the course of the night. I certainly discovered much about myself. I am planning to explore my feelings in a big article on my return.
As the sun began to peek over the earth once more, we took a sigh of relief, knowing that now celebrations were to begin in earnest. It is quite easy to believe in magic when a man of sage like age, explains that such a sun rises only once a year and in five minutes it will become another, ordinary sunrise…
And then we greeted everyone for the new year of the Yellow Dog. “Shagaa bile!” – “Kurai, Kurai” – we exchanged common greetings. The air filled with happiness. A couple of coals from a sacred fire are taken by each visitor, upon the advice of the shaman.

After sleeping fifty minutes, I went to the Centre of Tuvan Culture, where I heard a beautiful legend about the origins of the igil (bow instrument) and learned how to weave whips. After some problems with Google Maps, which messed up the numbers of the houses again, I still came to the television centre, where I gave an interview for 105.5FM. I remind you that you can tune in at 6:10 Moscow time and at 10:10 am Siberian time. Having had a rest in our rented apartment, we decided to take advantage of the hospitality of the “Nomads of Asia”, the Tuvan bike club – we thus the reception of these wonderful people as our base until the end of our stay in Tuva.

And if you want to repeat my trip and participate in the meeting of the sun, do not repeat the mistakes of my friends, and wear felt boots and woollen socks!

 

Yours, Maria.

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Non-critical travel notes. The second winter day in Tuva.

March 15, 2018by airamoNo Comments

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This article continues our series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa – the Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

I was inspired by the feedback that my travel notes were too optimistic and selling. Perhaps I was overly emotional about some positive things, such as the beauty of nature, and other such. Of course, we saw soot, poverty and rudeness. I like to remember the good, not devoid of reality, but devoid of vulgarity. I think that a lot depends on what expectations are set up initially, which events you visit and who you spend time with. On the streets of Kyzyl I found interesting and hospitable Tuvans. Since I did not live here, I didn’t have the opportunity to completely immerse myself in local realities, but I could communicate with people. Many locals made me really proud. We, the inhabitants of megacities or more developed regions, often complain about the conditions of life and we say that we do not like Moscow.
In spite of hardships, Tuvans love their land. Yes, many Tuvans emigrate, but those who remain speak so sincerely of their love towards their home, that they cannot be not believed. I wish for Tuva to find a path of development, which would alleviate the condition of the people and also preserve their culture and traditions.

As for today, it began with a visit to a shaman yurt in Dalniy Kaa-Khem. The driver could not find the address we needed for a long time, after driving through the whole village. When we found the place, we were invited into a yurt standing proudly in the courtyard of a home. We were told the Shaman was currently out, at a government meeting, and would be with us soon. While we were talking with the host, we were offered tea with milk, boorzak (fried dough pieces) and traditional cake. During our tea drinking, we learnt that one should never pour tea in the direction of the door, lest all the good that is in the house leaves it, but is rather stored and accumulated. Talking with a shaman is always a unique event. Our quiet conversation flowed effortlessly. Hanging on the opposite wall, the sacrifices for Shagaa were already prepared. We also brought cookies, sweets and milk, because it refers to sacred white food. I think I will dedicate a separate article about this Shaman when I can, perhaps when I get back home. For now I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped organise this meeting, who was in this yurt and personally Elena Khuler-Oolovna Otsur for her attention and detailed answers.

After lunch, we planned a visit to the National Museum. At the time when we left a shaman house, there was only an hour left before closing, and we decided to postpone it the next day, which promises to be one of the most saturated. We went for a walk that day instead of rushing to the museum. Now, since Shagaa is tomorrow, further notes will likely have to wait a little while.

Always with you,

Maria

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Travel notes. The first winter day in Tuva.

February 25, 2018by airamoNo Comments

Original image

This article continues our series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa – the Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

It was still dark, when we got off a train Novosibirsk-Abakan in the freezing morning. A driver met us to take to a maral farm, and then finally to Kyzyl. It became my tradition to enter Kyzyl at dawn and leave at sunset. So it happened again. As soon as the sun lit up our path, my eyes saw what I wanted to see: snowy steppes and fluffy mountains. In the summer, the steppes looked comfortable and soft, like trampolines , and I could not imagine how they would look during winter. Their image was now stern! The northern landscape of cold whites, blues and greys was by no means unfriendly, but commanded respect for sure.

The weather was sunny when we arrived in Turan . Animals were kept in large pens of land, females separated from males. An iron grid separated them from the visitors. However, as the driver said, he is not often asked to come here, and today we were, it seems, the only guests. Most of the marals (local red deer) had small horns. When they grow up, they are cut and used as components for various medicines. Female marals showed more curiosity about the passing car, but people with cameras still preferred to move away. Some males engaged in power displays despite the modest size of the horns.

I visited the Centre of Asia in Kyzyl earlier, but I inspected it more thoroughly during my second visit. I won’t describe the monument again, instead share the memory of the huge and impressive sheets of ice across the frozen Yenesei river. Its huge width brought the message home that Kyzyl is “on the Yenisei”, and not just next to it. Vivaldi, reproduced on the embankment, brought a funny dissonance with it. To be accurate, when we just came up, it sounded “Summer” from the “Seasons” cycle. Selection of European classical music in the Centre of Asia sounded unforgettable.

After walking around the city a little more, we met an interesting person who finally explained to me why the Tuvans often say that they had once been blond and blue-eyed. As it turned out, these were still not exactly Tuvans, but other peoples who came to Tuva to avoid flooding in their lands. I hoped to learn more about it the day tomorrow at the National Museum.

Soon we had already settled in a rented apartment, and next day we had a meeting with a shaman and a visit to the museum. Further to my list of culinary impressions, I added a hodgepodge and lamb in the cafe “Choduraa”. Food is pleasantly cheap out here. I was looking forward to the next day.

Always here,

Maria.

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Travel notes. Preparation. Part 3. Round trip to Tuva set.

February 8, 2018by airamoNo Comments

This article continues our series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa – the Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

Greetings, lovers of Tuva! This is probably my last pre-trip note. I am now ready for the trip having booked a hostel in Kyzyl and celebrated the band leader’s and my birthday with a loud concert featuring Arthur Berkut, a local musician. Now that everything including travel is booked, we are ready to embark on our expedition!

Today, according to Google, the weather in Kyzyl is only (yes, ‘only’) -19 degrees. I refuse to go unprepared and have sorted myself some seasonally decorated felt boots! Other body armour included a lot of woollen sweaters, thermals, scarves, doublets … the list goes on and on.

Our agenda for the trip has been written up, among the appointments, I will visit the café-yurt “Tos-Karak”, where I will learn more about national Tuvan cuisine, then the celebration of Shagaa at the shepherds’ camp, the meeting with the shaman and participation in the workshops on the game on national instruments from the Centre of Tuvan culture. Of course, I have to visit the National Museum. We’ve done our best to pack our agenda like a can of sardines. We are going back to Abakan on the 19th and so there is some left for impromptu meetings and events. Everything I find interesting, I will try to report on with as much detail as possible!

I got a bunch of letters asking me whether I will perform on stage during my trip to Tuva, and the answer is sadly no. I am travelling without my band and I would only want to be on stage with them. My solo program is still being developed. That being said, I am sure to meet a few fans along the way and am always open to new acquaintances.

I also want to thank everyone who has helped me, left feedback or simply follows these little ‘Travel Notes’. Separately, I want to thank the Ministry of Communications of Tuva, the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tuva and personally Aldar Tamdin for their support. Every offer of help or new idea makes my trip better, and my “Notes” are more interesting.

PS:  I am going to participate in the TV program “Running on Tuva” by OVAA TV! Very excited!

Always with you and with love to Tuva,

Maria

vk.com/marislava_bermann
vk.com/voronproject

#Tyva #Tuva #News #Kyzyl #weather #music #ArthurBerkut #voron_project #travels #путевыезаметкимарии_tyvame #ovaa_travel

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Travel notes. Preps. Part 2. About shoors and kind people

January 26, 2018by airamoNo Comments

With this article we continue our series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa, which is the festival of Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

Hello to everyone who loves Tuva! Thus I continue my “Travel Notes”. Today we cover a few notable episodes on my way to Shagaa. I had finished packing all the warm clothes and embarked on my trip.

Acquiring and mastering a Tuvan flute of some sort was one of my dreams for a while. I fell for the shoor because of its unusual iridescent sound, and the peculiar way with which you play the instrument. A good while on google and requests to music shops didn’t give me anything useful so I turned to the Centre of Tuvan Culture. The experts there told me that this instrument is… disposable! I read on the internet that it was made from a plant called baltyrgan, which was harvested in Autumn, when its stalks were on the right side of withered. And hence it was missing in mid-January!

But let me go astray and tell you about Tuvan hospitality. Shagaa itself, as far as I can judge from the small amount of information on the internet, is a very hospitable holiday, when everyone calls each other to visit, the rich treat the poor, etc. It goes as far as having competitions to see who the best host is! My “Travel Notes” received a lot of attention. Responses have been varied, from invitations to calling me derogatory terms for immigrants. Well, finally I had the opportunity to feel as an immigrant! Tuvan hospitality was not surprising but amazed me nonetheless. Complete strangers expressed such support and interest in my journey that I felt obliged to somehow give back, at least with eager answers. Special thanks go out to everyone who helped me with transport. Without them the trip would have been impossible, I hope we stay in touch! I also want to thank the Centre for their advise with the flute, and everyone else who reads my notes.

By the way, just the other day I was given a wonderful gift. It was a small collection of Tuvan myths in three languages: Tuvan, Russian and English. Stay tuned for more, not long left to wait!

With love, Maria

vk.com/marislava_bermann
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Travel notes. Preps. Part 1

January 18, 2018by airamoNo Comments

With this article we embark on a series of “Travel Notes” by the folk musician and journalist Maria Kirilova. Maria kindly suggested writing travel notes for tyva.me during a trip to Tuva this year for the celebration of Shagaa, which is the festival of Tuvan New Year. Maria will share her insights about the sternly beautiful winter of Tuva, how the Tuvinians survive in the -40 degree frosts, how the Shagaa is celebrated, and what is sung in the winter folk songs.

Author: Maria Kirilova

Greetings to all who are interested in Tuva! My name is Maria, and I share your passion. Russia is so vast that no one person can know everything about the country. Many people have not even heard of Tuva. Compared to the whole of our coutry, the territory of an area of 168.6 square kilometres can be easily lost. But this land is truly legendary!

I still do not quite understand why I chose Tuva in particular, but it seems that it chose me. Since I was first in Tuva two and a half years ago, I could not stop thinking about its amazing people and natural landscapes. A lot happened during the first and most chaotic visit. Nowadays my role is the journalist and musician of the band “Raven” (Moscow, folk metal).

Indeed, the annual music festival Ustuu-Huree popularised trips to the republic. Yet few have seen the Tuvan steppe in the snow? The fluffy snowy hills, their soft enveloping edges make you vie to see them again and again. Without visiting Tuva in winter, it is impossible to understand the Tuvans themselves, whose life is not only a continuous summer holiday, but one that forces to answer questions of survival on an annual basis.

I’m going to Tuva in February to celebrate Shagaa. Shagaa is the Tuvan New Year holiday, celebrated in Buddhist and shamanic traditions. A New Year date is appointed annually by lamas. For Tuvans, it is one of the most important holidays of the year, when all close people, even living in different kozhuuns, try to meet, have a good night and joyfully meet dawn. The New Year begins with the sunrise.

For those who want to learn about rituals, traditions and special white foods that are both eaten and sacrificed on this sacred day, I will describe every day of my trip in detail, not missing any joys or anxieties, hopefully inspiring fellow travellers.

I am writing series of notes and articles about this trip, and some of them will be released on tyva.me. I express my gratitude to the site’s team and to everyone who will follow the course of my trip.

With love, Maria.

https://vk.com/marislava_bermann
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Cheers to Edegey

October 25, 2017by airamoNo Comments

Hey Kyzyl! Does anyone have friends who attended Edegey classes? Do they remembers the constant stories about how much the stern coach and how heavy the headgear is at the performance? The viewer, on the other hand, watches the smooth movements of the dancers,  and does not realise how much labour and  many hundreds of hours of rehearsals were invested in each act.

Every person who is acquainted with Tuva would have seen Edegey dancers. They perform at all major festivals, not only in Tuva but across Russia and present Russia internationally.

The current “Edegey” ensemble was founded in 1999. It was created by the “Vyacheslav Dongak Culture Foundation” charity. The now famous ensemble, as all success stories, started out as a small group, in this case of passionate choreographers.

There is a funny story about finding a name for the dance company. According to the head of the ensemble Kima Dongak, the project was nameless for a while. “Edegey” just sort of emerged in dialogue – the name of a small place in Barun-Khemchik kozhuun. The name’s root is “edee”, its rough meaning – “the foot of the mountain”. More than 350 talented dancers aged from 5 to 20 currently perform as part of “Edegey”. The gloriously garish costumes, seamless cooperation between the dancers and the exploration of various deep themes make “Edegey” the dancing pride out our dear Tuva.

Models: Edegey’s composition
Photographer: Enkhzhin Mongush

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Tuvan Money – a Brief History

October 25, 2017by airamoNo Comments

By Yana Kozhaga

What is money? This is the equivalent of the value in an abstract unit. In Tuva (then the republic existed as the Tuvan People’s Republic), this unit was called “Aksha” and was minted on 1st January, 1936.

On the 25th July, 1925, Tuvinbank was founded. The bank executive manager Tanchay Charandai Oglu Oyun officially launched Tuvan currency. And Tuvinbank joined the State Bank of the USSR. Aksha was produced in the Moscow Mint. Goznak USSR Banknotes made about two million Aksha for the People’s Republic of China.

On the 11th August, 1939 the government of the People’s Republic of China approved the drawing of new banknotes.

Since 1st March, 1941, banknotes of the 1940 model have been issued with denominations of 1, 3, 5, 10 and 25 Aksha.

Exchange of old-style banknotes continued until September 1, 1941. 1 Aksha cost 1 Ruble 35 Kopecks.

What was before the aksha? Barter prevailed. Arats handed furs, cattle, agricultural raw materials over to private firms, and in exchange received industrial goods. In the statehood period, Tuva used Soviet Rubles and paper Chervontsi, Chinese Yuan, Mongolian Tugriks.

TPR entered the USSR in 1944, leaving its independent state. Therefore, the country stopped using its domestic currency and state symbols. Aksha was used for 9 years, from 1936-1944.

This brief experience of issuing domestic bank notes is unique in Tuva’s ancient history.  Until 1936, Chinese Yuan, Mongolian Tugriks and Soviet Rubles with a special stamp were in circulation. After 1944, the Aksha was changed to Soviet Ruble, and numismatists fascinate themselves with the Aksha as a remnant of a bygone age.

Literature:

  1. “On the Way of the Great October” 80-88 pages
  2. “History of postal service and signs of postal payment of Tuva”
  3. “Museum in the 21st century: problems and prospects”
  4. “Uryanya”
  5. http://falyosa.livejournal.com/4912676.html
  6. https://www.turkaramamotoru.com/en/
  7. https://readtiger.com/wkp/ru/Tuvinskaya_aksha
  8. http://navimann.livejournal.com/358365.html
  9. http://www.fox-notes.ru/img_eng/k12_11_tuva.htm
  10. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuvinskaya_aksha
  11. http://rama909.livejournal.com/10472158.html

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National Museum of Tuva Republic

October 6, 2017by airamoNo Comments

culture.ru

Learn a lot by visiting Tuvan National Museum. It was built in 1929 with help of the State Hermitage, Russian Museum, Mineral Museum, Zoology Museum of USSR by Science Academy, the All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries, the Exhibition Departments of Moscow and Leningrad and others.

Museum collections include exhibits reflecting an existance of the Tuvans and other ethnic groups of Tuva. Also, there are collections of minerals and evidence of other natural resources of the republic.

It’s quite interesting to look at and learn samples of cult Shaman instruments, Buddhist and Orthodox relics and evidence of the activities of spiritual representatives, examples of Tuvan stone-cutting art, documents, books and other interesting historical collections.

In the museum you can visit the archive, the scientific library, get acquainted with the expert group, see the restoration workshops for metal, wood, painting, and stone.

The main museum exhibit had being kept there after the excavations of the Arzhaan-2 mound, Uyuk burial in the valley of the river Uyuk in the spurs of the Western Sayan in the Piy-Khem district. For the first time in 1997, scientists investigated the grave of the Scythian leader of the second half of the 7th century BC. e., and later in 2001-2003, the representatives of the Russian-German expedition conducted archaeological excavations.

Surprisingly, more than 20 kg of gold items of everyday and cultic nature, made in “animal style” with the highest jewelry art, remained untouched. The republican museum has the bulk of the items, the other part – in the State Hermitage.

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Christian Akono, Cameroon

September 22, 2017by airamoNo Comments
Kyzyl 2014
Interviewed by  Belek Namchyl-ool

My name is Christian.

The first time I arrived to Tuva was in 2008. In 2009, I moved here.
When I came here, I loved the nature, because you can experience Tuva’s treasure and beauty when you learn your way around its nature. I’m never bored here as I always have places to visit and see both in the winter and summer. I was surprised when I saw Tuvans for the first time. I’d never lived among Asians before, so I thought I wasn’t in Russia, but in China, South Korea or Mongolia.
Tuvans are down to Earth and hospitable people. Often, we try to seem more than who we are, but Tuvans are unique in just being themselves – always, and this is inspiring.
I love Tuvan food. Meat is always on the menu. Back in Cameroon, we usually and often have fish. Here, I can indulge in my favourite meat dishes and keep up with fish from the surrounding rivers and lake when I want to. Also, I have never thought it is possible to drink salted milk tea, but it turns out that after the first try you can’t stop! At first, I couldn’t drink it, but now I add to my tea some milk and salt myself every time. I have a nickname in Tyva, “Kara-Ool”, meaning “Black Boy”, and when I’m travelling around, I’m always asked where I am from. I often joke that I’m the Kara-ool’s nephew. (Sholban Kara-ool is the Head of Government in Tuva this moment).
Tuvans have great culture which should be shared with other people. One of the major Tuvan arts is throat-singing. You can’t find it in Africa. I hope Tuva develops in many areas, enjoys peace at home and God in the heart.

Christan Akono from Cameroon, 2014

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